Sunday, October 21, 2012

First Stop: Yangon, Myanmar


"So much to see, with nothing to see."

Yangon, Myanmar is not what I had expected. I actually felt frustrated and overwhelmed in the beginning. Maybe I was still upset about leaving Korea and my wonderful friends, maybe it was the big dirty city, or maybe it was simply culture shock. Whatever the case, the first 16 hours were annoying.

Upon arrival there was confusion with the airport pickup from my guesthouse, I was not picked up, so I started off a little anxious. The next morning, exchanging money was a blister in my butthole. Bills had to be American for the best rate and brand new and crisp with no creases, marks, or slight imperfections. I checked my dollars before leaving Korea and I thought they were fine, but upon closer inspection by money changers, they were not. I went from place to place, and they were very picky, I ended up getting a lower rate with my crisp $50 bills.

Shwedagon Pagoda
The travelers that are here are mainly older people, and most of the other travelers here are French. I was expecting there to be younger backpackers (like me), but I've ran into a couple cool people regardless.

Young Monks
After changing money and guesthouses to be closer to the city, I went to the infamous Shwedagon Pagoda. It was stunning! It was so vast and every inch of it was beautiful. I walked around it several times, and sat down to wait for the sunset, enjoying the vibe of Shwedagon. A monk sat next to me and enjoyed as much small talk as our language barrier allowed. We walked around the pagoda together as he gave me a guided tour, kind of explaining things. I had trouble understanding, so I just smiled and nodded. I do remember it seemed like each area in the pagoda represented something different. There was one area was for luck, where he had me pour water over a statue three times so I can be “lucky girl”, and there was another area for meditation. Even though I didn't understand much of what was going on, it was sweet to have a monk as a tour guide.

The food stand with various pig parts
After the amazing Shwedagon Pagoda, I was starving and decided to look for some noms. I wanted to try some street food but was a little hesitant. I decided to go big. I watched a documentary on my flight over about Myanmar; one of the foods featured was various parts of pig, including pig intestines. As I walked around I saw dozens of stands with the pig parts. I stopped at one that a family was running. I tried asking exactly what parts of the animal I was eating, but I still am not sure. One was something to do with the arm, heart, and something about blood. Whatever I ate was actually really delicious and tasty, but sometimes with a very odd texture. I think it’s better not knowing exactly what I was eating. The son and daughter smiled and giggled at me as I made funny faces while eating. I was joined by a local Myanmar man who would cheers his pig part skewer with me. He taught me to dip the skewer in the fat, then dip it in a red sauce provided on the stand, then chew. We laughed at each other, without knowing what the other was saying, then he paid for my meal! It was so nice of him!

The adorable daughter
Next, I wandered around looking for a beer. Found a place with seating outside, but with limited seating we were seated with strangers. I was seated next to an older gentleman from Quebec who I exchanged travel stories with, and who was enjoying his second visit to Myanmar after 20 years. It was interesting to hear what he had to say about how things have changed. He also described the city of Yangon best, "so much to see, with nothing to see". We enjoyed Myanmar lager and nice conversation, then when it was time to go he paid for my beer!
The friendly local who paid for my meal!
What a lucky day. I think I owe it to the monk and the Myanmese gentleman who had me pour the water on the statue.

Solid first full day in Myanmar.

Saturday, October 20, 2012

My Travels

I had no intentions of making my blog into a travel blog, but my time in Myanmar was so amazing I've decided to share (mostly brag) about my experience, adventures, and interactions.

I left Myanmar today, and I'm waiting in the airport in Bangkok to head to Chiang Mai. Stay tuned for some exciting stuff!

Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar

Sunday, October 7, 2012

A Love Letter

I have never been good as expressing myself with words (as you all very well know), and since I am terrible with emotions in person, this is the best way I can say what I want to say.

Dear Korea, Inje, people of Inje, and everyone I have met during my year in Korea,

I love you. I love Korea, I love Inje, I love the people. I love all of you.

To Korea, you're the best. I love your people, food, culture, lifestyle, everything.

To my students who will never read this, thank you for pissing me off, making me laugh, making me angry, letting me teach you, and making me miss you and care for you way too much.

To my boss who has been like a mother to me, thank you. I couldn't have asked for a more caring and generous person to have as my boss. Having you as my boss has changed my life for the better in Korea.

To everyone I have met in the past month, you fucking rock. You are all amazing and as unfortunate as it was to meet you with such little time left, I am so glad. (Canoe trip people and everyone I met at Min's cabin over Chuseok, this is for you).

And finally, to my Inje family, thank you. Thank you for being my friend, my brother, and my sister. Thank you for going to Jjokki Jjokki with me, drinking cojiganmeks, eating at Kimbap Cheunguk, dealing with me, reminding me that my jokes aren't funny, laughing at my "punny" jokes, consoling me, letting me confide in you, noraebang nights, and thank you for being you and letting me be me. (Well that was cheesy). But seriously, Inje peeps, thank you, I love you.

Saying goodbye to my Inje family was one of the worst goodbyes I've ever had to make. I feel like the luckiest girl in the world having met all of you. Handing over my ARC card was another emotional journey where the immigration lady probably had her doubts about letting me through.

I am now sitting at the Incheon International Airport, Gate 26, crying, surrounded by a bunch of permed elderly women, waiting for my flight to Myanmar. I'm so excited for my travel adventures I'm about to embark on, but my adventure Korea will forever be etched in my mind.

Goodbye fuckers, goodbye Korea, I love you, it's been a trip. (Apologies to my parents for swearing.)

"Enjoy life."

Friday, October 5, 2012

My Dirty Little Secret

I've been avoiding writing about this for some time now, but this is such a magical wonderland I realized I have been selfish. It is time to talk about the one and only Gwangjang Market!

Thrifting and vintage shops are a passion of mine. I love the idea that "one man's trash is another man's treasure", or "one old woman's frock is my new summer dress!" I was bummed when I heard that thrift stores aren't very common in Korea; everyone's trying to wear the latest styles and newest clothes. After intense Google research and extensive blogger fishing, I finally discovered the hidden gem.

Gwangjang Market is a dream land! Inside is a labyrinth of dozens and dozens of tiny shops.

Shoes! Glorious shoes!
A cat denim vest
A hallway with stalls everywhere
A plaid suit for 56,000 won. What a deal!
The first time I went, I was in such awe of everything I didn't buy anything. It's such a maze! I've been back several times since and bought dresses, denim vests, awkward track jackets, and shoes. One thing I learned that I think is essential to know, if you see something buy it. Numerous times I saw something I liked, decided I'll look around more and come back. When I decided to go back to a specific stall to make the final purchase, I could never find it. It would take me ages to finally find the same stall again. Something else I noticed, is that they are very seasonal. I went in August and there were denim vests and tank tops galore! Two weeks later, a dress I had my eye on was gone, as were most of the denim vests, which were replaced my denim jackets and long sleeved shirts.

How do you get to this magical wonderland, you ask? Well let me tell you my way and what I think is easiest (other people may tell you differently)
  1. Take Line 1 (dark blue line) to Jongno 5-ga
  2. Walk to Exit 12
  3. Walk out of Exit 12
  4. On your left you should see an alley with an NH Bank on the left, and the Pharmacy (약) on the right.
  5. Walk through the alley
  6. When you reach the first intersection in the alley, on your right, you will see a staircase that says "Textile Gallery Joong Ang"
  7. Go upstairs. 
  8. Enter the door.
  9. Walk straight through the fabric stalls. You should see a staircase at the end of the hallway, which is at the end of the vintage clothes market.
  10. Then the adventure begins. 
  11. If you didn't see the staircase, you went the wrong way. 
You should walk down this once you enter the market area
Gwangjang Market sign
If you explore a little more, at the edges of the stalls with young, hip Koreans working, explore the outskirts.  I went down a creepy hallway and found myself in an area with ajummas working and the selection was older, muskier, and better. There were leather coats, fur coats, purses, cardigans, and a cat dress that I so regret not buying. (I went back later, and it was gone).

The cat dress!
If you go to the market, let me know what you end up finding!